Another challenging day

Devon, as might be expected, is hillier than many UK counties and combining that switchback tendency with a headwind and the need to carry a couple of panniers, results in some pretty demanding recent days. The Taunton to Tiverton canal was a new one on me. The railways rendered this grand plan to connect the Bristol Channel to the English Channel obsolete and the northern stretch is long gone but the run to Tiverton is lovely and unusually broad, with fine stone bridges. We caffled out after about 32 miles and took the 15 minute train ride from Tiverton Parkway to Exeter St David's. The morning had included more canal headwinds from North Petherton to Taunton. In Taunton we saw some impressive waterside development by Crest Nicholson.

In the evening I had a pint of porter in the hardline CAMRA stronghold of the Great Western Hotel. I have to assume that Oscar Wilde is an ironic nomenclature, as Frank Haaris's rather good biography that I read last year suggested that fine claret and cognac were more in his line. On to Carluccios, always reliable and then an outstanding breakfast at Lloyds Kitchen just off Cathedral Green.

The Exe Valley Way is delightful, more canal, estuary and views across to Topsham (très chic) and Exmouth (pas chic du tout). The rail line is fully restored at Dawlish, which is charming inland but with a thick crust of seaside tat.

Then came the Cath's nemesis, the relentless pushing of the laden bike up the very, very long hill to Teignmouth golf course, after which a glorious 20 minute descent to near Newton Abbot. Then an unavoidable short spell on the, always busy dual carriageway, and off into NA proper. This brief included a visit to the Cider House. So few of these survive, that it is a delight to find one thriving. We go back as often as we can. This time we both had Thatcher's. Cath favoured the Diesel and I had Black Rat. Bliss. Cath decided to take a day off. I should have planned one in but failed miserably. I met her later in Plymouth to get the ferry.

And so to Plymouth. Well, what an extraordinary place. Twice the size of Exeter and , although I knew it to have extraordinary amounts of social housing, I had not much passed through it but Plympton, through which NCR2 passes is essentially a giant series of estates. Although they are rendered and painted, the local style, they are generally well kept, unlike the section of NR2 behind the sewage works.  My dear, the seepage! We have been to Plymouth for very purposes but have only recently started to appreciate it.

And so to The Lord High Admiral (Nelson) to quench the considerable thirst that 7 hours cycling engendered and how convenient that it is opposite the excellent Sea Salt and that they had a table for a quick meal before claiming our right, as the only cyclists apparent on this crossing so far, to embark first. This is a very new vessel. All is orderly and the shower is powerful and of a good temperature immediately, suggesting tappings off a pumped DHW circuit.