Day 16 Pornic - St Jean-de-Monts 77km

A beautiful sunny day, mostly spent in the Marais (salt marshes) of South Brittany (Loire Maritime since WWII) and the Vendée. The salt pans are not an attractive prospect, being scummy pools, far from the pure white powder that we inhale, or perhaps I am thinking of something different. What a tough living to claw and many signs of vigorous clawing. Oysters, mussels and some rich yields of broad beans, hay and Spring wheat.

Incidentally I have failed to mention that there were no leaves on trees in North Brittany but they began to emerge as we descended towards Pontivy, and by the time we reached Nantes most trees were in leaf, oaks surprisingly early. It feels like Spring now, lovely, if chill first thing and in the wind.

Back to the Marais and, after years of dispirited loathing, brought on by scarring holidays with small children, I enjoyed our jaunty trip through the salt marshes. They are great for cycling, especially when the wind is behind you. The curious fishermen's cabanes, with nets and winding hear show how the sea creatures must rush up the rivers and creeks and onto the coast in such numbers that they are easily gathered.

We stopped for a coffee at 11:00, naturellement, at an ancient bar/restaurant near the muddy creek beyond the wrist-slitting caravan site near the non-beach. So reminiscent of Fleetwood. The restaurant was superb and, bravo, billed itself as a 'restaurant traditionnel' with a tank of lobsters and various maritime junk on an ancient stone wall. We were too early for lunch but we shall go back, sometime. Très simple.

The wind gathered force and we approached the causeway to l'Ile de Nourmoutier but it was already underwater and would have been treacherous on a laden bike, so we turned back, resulting in a tiresome and heavily trafficked diversion before we got to the very enjoyable cycle path in the 'montes'  (essentially sand dunes) that interpose between Atlantic and swamp. Just prior to this we had seen some of the traditional cottages with reed thatch, mostly now replaced with the Roman tiles that become prevalent below the Loire.

Before this, in Brittany, all roofs are slate or 'Ardoise'. We saw no thatch but this may be because it is too wet or since slate replaced thatch when canals and railways (and fashion, and wealth) enabled it.

Tonight, in St Jean-de-Monts we are at the Hotel Atlantique, where a young couple with three daughters are reinventing a small 1920s  hotel on a shoestring, and it has been lovely. We have had some uplifting accommodation, eating and bread experiences so far this trip, despite (or perhaps because of) my Cassandra-like outlook.

The church in SJDM is extrordinary. I remembered the great, modern market hall from 20 years ago, but how could I have missed the church? Most unusual.

Cath ended the day exhausted and dehydrated, despite frequent stops to drink water. Metabolically we are chalk and cheese. I hardly sweat and she glows more than a little, finding the headwinds very tough.